• Te Araroa Day 1
• Te Rerenga Wairua / Cape Reinga to Twilight Beach Camp – 13.2 km in 4 hrs

The past week has been quite the rollercoaster of “Is it real? Am I doing this? It doesn’t quite feel real”. I can’t quite believe it, but if I pause to think too much it all feels big and scary.

It was great to get some decent sleep after all the busyness of the last few weeks, but waking up to heavy rain in the middle of the night made me wonder how I’d have fared if I’d been in the tent.

Mangonui was beautiful, and the view while having breakfast helped calm the nerves. We set off for Kaitaia, stopping briefly there before continuing up the windy, quiet road to the Cape. Taputupotu Bay was a lovely spot for lunch, and I was relieved to be able to stomach a reasonable amount what with nerves and a bit of car sickness.

It was a very short drive from there to Te Rerenga Wairua / Cape Reinga, and time to put the last few things in the pack. The camera I’d dithered about taking flew out of my slippery sunscreen hands and skittered under the car. Maybe this would answer the “to take or not to take?” question! But miraculously it survived its run in with the concrete, and seemed functioning so I guess it’s coming!

Even though I felt seriously like throwing up at first, the path down to the lighthouse took us past stunning views that I had long wanted to see as a kiwi, and chatting to Hadassa helped a lot too. We saw the churning water where the Tasman meets the Pacific Ocean, and the point where the spirits head home from.

After a few photos it was time to head off down the track signposted with the wee Te Araroa logo. So many emotions, but most of all just a huge grin on my face. I’m doing it! This is real!

I thought a lot about all the people who’d supported or helped me to get to this point. I never imagined so many people would be interested or enthusiastic about this adventure. Even though I’m walking solo, I feel far from alone. My heart is very much full.

Te Werahi Beach was pretty, and I was surprised and excited to hear from two passing walkers that there was a 68 year old ahead of me doing TA who’d be at the same camp ground tonight. I followed his footsteps most of the way. The climb out of Te Werahi Beach went across and up very Mars-like terrain.

Views of Twilight Beach stretched out ahead, and although there were moments camp seemed far away, it was reasonably easy going and I got there in the late afternoon.

Slight panic when I realised my memory of how to set up my tent was a bit hazy, and I seemed to have left the instructions at home to save weight! It came together though, and then it was time to meet the other TA walkers Ian & Andrew and get to know each other over dinner. They didn’t know each other, and none of us could quite believe we’d run into other TA hikers so late in the traditional season. Their first question was critically important they said – they’d decided it would be entertaining to guess the occupations of other hikers. Andrew thought I might be a nurse, and Ian thought I could be a physiotherapist 😂 Ian is retired but has completed the South Island leg of TA, and Andrew is a kiwi who lives in Canada who’s done the Camino. What a great first day.

I want to say a huge thank you to Hadassa and Tony for their amazing kindness in picking me up from Auckland airport, and driving me to the start line. It was so much more special to start this way, and I’m really grateful to them both.