• Te Araroa Day 4
• Hukatere Camp to Ngaepae Holiday Park – 19.3km in 6 hours
• New freckles: a million
• New blisters: none, yay!

A bit more rain last night in the tent, but so far it seems very waterproof despite my shoddy pitching. Ian and I had breakfast together and chatted to Andrew as he finished his packing and headed off early again.

We had an unusual soundtrack to pack up to, as the women’s retreat group turned on their relaxation music and began something outside their big teepee – maybe low key dancing? Swaying? Awkwardly they were right in my eye line as I packed up my tent. Just as we were putting on our packs, they cranked the music suddenly and I recognised the Black Eyed Peas’ song ‘Let’s Get It Started’. Maybe they were just giving us a send off? As we began walking, Ian and I chuckled about how everyone likes different things and that they probably thought we were absolutely nuts too.

Both feet were pretty sore, especially starting out. I’m really hoping neither blister is infected because I’ve been there and done that!

Possibly the highlight of my day was fashioning a shade out of my towel! I naively thought the big hat would prevent all sunburn, but I wish I’d done this days ago. The hat brim gets blown up in a headwind, and doesn’t stretch to the back of my neck. Sunscreen helps at first, but reapplying once you’re covered in sand just plain hurts. So covering up seems best even if it means being drenched in sweat!

Ian and I chatted a bit about the prospect of another national lockdown, and which airport is closest and what might happen. At the moment it seems like it would just be a good rest for my blisters! Then the sand got too soft as high tide approached and the small dot on the horizon was indeed Andrew having a rest when we got closer. I sat with him for a while, but Ian was feeling great and quickly headed off. He sure is a remarkable 68 year old.

It started raining to the point where a jacket was required, as we talked about the housing crisis and the lack of a capital gains tax. Andrew explained a friend had told him Switzerland have a very good system, and it was interesting to hear about.

I set off again by myself, but soon had another break to let the sand harden more. Today on the beach there were fisherman here and there, and one kind couple asked if I’d like some fish for dinner. They and some other people seemed to be using kites to fish. It seems polite to wave to cars, and as Ian said, you never know when you might need a hand. Most cars give a low key wave back, but today a car passed with everyone waving enthusiastically and cheering. It was awesome and had me grinning away for some time afterwards.

I eventually made it to Ngaepae Holiday Park, where the check in staff member was so friendly and kind, even though I was dripping with sweat and probably looked a mess. I upgraded to a cabin, hoping that a good night’s sleep would help my body and feet, and also looking forward to drying the tent out properly. Never had a hot shower and the prospect of doing washing been so exciting!

The Wi-Fi seemed solid, so while lying with my feet up against the wall I caught up on White Ferns’ games and studiously tried not to fall asleep at 7 pm. Easier said than done!

Today really was a mission at times, and I was feeling pretty broken by the time I stumbled into the holiday park. I hope tomorrow will be better after a good rest.