• Te Araroa Day 12
• Apple Tree Camp to Puketi Forest Hut – 30.17 km in 9 hours 20 minutes

Far out.. It’s amazing what the body can do.

After a shitty sleep with way too many critters creeping around the tent and some awfully loud screeching sounds, I was keen to get going and excited about the stream walk. On the way at 8:30 am, the first chunk was more 4WD track. It passes over a concrete ford which provides the water level check – the whole section is a no go if it’s running over the ford. Today it was well under though – yay (the alternative route is 22km of state highway 1). The trail then turned off and headed steeply downhill for quite some time, after passing through a Kauri dieback boot cleaning station.

Eventually, there it was – Mangapukahukahu Stream! Awesome name right? The cold water felt amazing on my feet, and it was indeed beautiful. For 3 kilometers, the trail runs in the stream, so you criss cross between the shallow parts, and sometimes walk beside the river if there is a bank.

Mostly it was ankle deep, occasionally knee deep. The walking poles came in handy in case of the odd slippery rock, but it was easy travelling.

The confluence with the Lower Waipapa River is where this part ends with a steep sharp uphill and then a near vertical descent into that river where it’s better to cross. The flow was stronger but it was knee deep, and I was just relieved I hadn’t slid down the track into it!

The shore on the other side was a lovely lunch spot, and I was feeling good. I’d heard the next bit alongside the Waipapa River was tricky in parts but it started off well. Further in I could definitely see what others meant.. It was very narrow in parts and I was as careful as possible with my feet to avoid sliding down the bank.

The Waipapa River trail was only about 3 or 4km but I was certainly ready for it to end. Then there was this confusing sign, which I came across at about 2pm. Another 7 hours 30 minutes of walking??

I should have checked the maps for track names – 5 hours at the bottom was what applied to me, and luckily I knocked an hour off that time.

It was heartening to see lots of successful possum trapping along the way today. I hope it brings some birdsong back as at times the forest seemed very quiet and devoid of bird life, apart from piwakawaka often, a kereru once or twice, and not a lot else.

The next part I’d also been looking forward to – it went uphill along a ridge line through lots of Kauri trees. I made a little video message for my nephew whose name is Kauri. Much of the trail featured new steps and gravel pathways because of Kauri dieback. I had mixed feelings – it’s great that this part of the trail is still open, but I really hope the disinfectant stations work well and walking through isn’t putting the trees at more risk.

After that the climb seemed to go on and on and I felt like the end was never coming. Eventually I reached another sign, saying it was just 9km or 2.5 hours to the end of the trail and the Puketi Forest Hut. Great, I’ll just smash that out I thought. For some irrational reason I thought it must be mostly downhill. It wasn’t, as the topo map clearly showed. I saw another person though which was a shock – a guy doing some trapping work. Later he offered me a ride but I said I’d tough it out thanks. I wondered how many TA hikers take lifts, and how many don’t, and what difference does it make. I’ve almost bought up 200 km though, and I’m quite proud I’ve walked it all.

After their nice dip in the cold steam earlier, my feet were well and truly sore, and my left ITB was starting to complain too. The gravel road kept undulating, and the gravel was of the big, sharp stone variety.

Anyway, the hut makes up for it all! It has electricity, a door code locking thing, and you have to book online (but the trap for young players is there no mobile reception at the hut!). It was so exciting to have a kettle to boil, and therefore hot water to wash clothes and dishes with. Next to the hut, the campground facilities include a really new shower/toilet block. Cold showers weren’t something I ever saw myself doing, but now they’re a real highlight! I was going to write they’re as good as a hot shower, but that’s going too far…

I’m feeling pretty exhausted again. My arms hurt from hauling myself along on the hiking poles. These two huge forest days have been hard going. I thought about different types or levels of fear today – unpredictable cattle versus tricky forest terrain versus road walking, and what’s within my control and not.

Ian texted to say he was staying with his brother in Kerikeri, and asking about kayaking together from Paihia. I’m really hanging out for my rest day in Paihia, so I’m not sure if he’ll want to wait that long. I know tomorrow’s section is quite long but I think the last part is the nicest, so hopefully that’ll help psychologically.

Looking forward to a critter free sleep tonight, or at least more substantial walls between me and the critters!