- Te Araroa Day 47
- Waitomo to Te Kuiti – 21 km in 5 hours 50 minutes
- Near tears moments: at least twice
- TA ice cream count: 12
I didn’t have too far to go today. Just as well, because my body and mind were both feeling wrecked from yesterday. I gingerly shuffled out of bed but was relieved my shin seemed to be feeling a lot better. Mysterious but miraculous – I’ll take it!
I wandered down to Waitomo township on a bush trail, past the entrance to the famous caves. It was a lot better than walking on the road. Waitomo was like a ghost town, and the Isite was now closed four days a week the sign said. I tried to muster enough brain power to sort out the parcel drops ahead.
Walking up behind the town, I think I might have got heckled for the first time on trail?! A 9:30am garage gathering seemed to be happening and I think I heard “get in a car girl” π I turned and waved with a “good morning”. In hindsight, maybe they knew more about today’s trail than I did!
A new first section has been made by a local to get walkers off the road. I assumed this meant the road was busy. It wasn’t at all, and I struggled to see the point of ups and downs that had me huffing and puffing, for no real point, through paddocks of cow poo. This led to the part which has the following sign at the start:

Naturally there was no way I was going near that! I ploughed on up the road which was really nice and quiet, while trying to think about where to stay in Taumarunui. Then came the downhill, and it felt like I was almost in town – just a bit of road, and one farm part to go. I was really looking forward to ice cream and rest.

The next road had a lot of massive trucks…it was back to straining my ears and jumping as far out of the way as possible. I was relieved to find the stile into farmland, which looked empty but careered off up a hill. Down the hill, cows off in a far away paddock, the trail skirted around and then of course swung back to require going through a paddock full of cows of the rush up and crowd around type. I was in no state to handle them so hopped another fence. One of these days the electric fence will actually be on, but I’ve been lucky so far.

Into a vast top paddock with no sign of markers I went. After peering at the map and trying out a direction I found the farm race which the trail followed. The view from here looked down onto the busy road, really highlighting the massive dog leg the route takes. I just want to freaking get to town! I’d lost all patience with the day, and was relieved to find a sign on a stile which basically says “don’t do this part because it’s awful, just walk down the nearby road to town”. I did, trying to deal with some escaped sheep on the road on the way, but giving up.
Yay! Finally Te Kuiti… even if it took six hours rather than four. I got some free WiFi at the Isite, booked a motel in Taumarunui, and dialed their number to ask if they were ok to receive a parcel for me. Just as they answered, a wasp stung me on the back of my neck… It sure wasn’t the most coherent phone call I’ve made! The Isite recommended a dairy, so I got an ice cream (cookies & cream) and a can of vanilla coke.
After that the wonderful Emma from Hunt’s Farm Backpackers came to pick me up. They’re based a couple of kilometres out of town, but well known as the place to stay for TA hikers. They’ve built a lovely cabin which I had all to myself, have clothes to borrow while doing washing, and a comfortable kitchen/dining. I made friends with Tina the dog…

I really wished I could have a rest day here tomorrow since it has everything a tired hiker could want, but unfortunately the weather doesn’t look compatible. The next section of trail is really notorious for being challenging in fine weather, and one that you shouldn’t attempt in wet weather. There aren’t really any road routes around it. The forecast for tomorrow is fine, while the day after tomorrow is for rain sadly, so a rest day doesn’t work. I did my best to make the most of resting this evening, figuring out the Chrome cast to get the cricket on the TV! I also felt grateful for my pumpkin, chickpea, spinach curry which is always a tasty meal. The drawn out process of making pumpkin powder in the dehydrator was worth it.

Hopefully I can get a decent sleep tonight, to prepare me for tomorrow. I’m feeling a bit nervous about it, as here’s what was posted recently in the Te Araroa Facebook group:


On the upside, with terrain that steep presumably there won’t be any cattle?!? Wish me luck…
My admiration for your endurance Nicola is getting stronger and stronger as you surely are with tackling new challenges on the way. Give yourself a pat on shoulder and hope tomorrow will be a better day ππ
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Thanks Zuzana! I think the next day was indeed better. There’s certainly been a range of challenges to tackle but some really rewarding parts too π I hope you’re enjoying a well earned break!
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