• Te Araroa Day 48
• Te Kuiti to Mangaokewa North Camp – 24 km in 8 hours 15 minutes

I tossed and turned all night last night, so frustrating in such a comfy bed. Emma kindly dropped me off in town on her way to work at the local high school. She’s an HOD and her husband is a dean – I don’t know how they do it, have children, and run such a superb accommodation place too. They must be superhuman? She also told me the trail into Te Kuiti has reduced grown men to tears, and some hikers are so broken by this point they need two weeks to rest before carrying on. It made me feel like I was doing ok! She reassured me the trail ahead wasn’t too bad, just not very well maintained. It had been in the newspaper though and locals were trying to use it as much as possible to help. She cheerfully reassured me that the campground I was heading for is actually only a twenty minute drive from their place if I hurt myself or something. I laughed at how Te Araroa puts you through the wringer on a tricky trail, all for the equivalent to twenty minutes by car!

Mum had very kindly sent up my warmer fleece and the next pair of shoes, but I’d been so busy whenever it had gone in the post I hadn’t explained exactly which shoes were next in the queue. The downside of having too many pairs of shoes worn in and ready to go! I was worried how my feet would feel in the slightly different model of Salomon shoes but they seemed ok. I’d carelessly rubbed a little skin off both heels yesterday in my farm-fatigue-fog because of small holes that have appeared in my second pair of socks. But with plasters and tape they felt ok, and I had the new socks on again.

The trail started through an industrial yard, crossed a river, to a rough 4WD track with a worrying degree of cow poo. Sure enough around the corner, cattle. I detoured up into the gorse on the bank above the track, hoping that was it. After an hour or so, the track arrived at Mangaokewa Scenic Reserve. It had a toilet, a sliver of mobile reception, some swings, and there were a few people about. While I was having a rest it started to rain though. I worried about the trail ahead that people suggest only attempting in fine weather, and hoped it would pass.

The trail was really well formed and pleasant for the next hour, forming half of the loop trail that DOC must maintain from the reserve. But then, I arrived – the beginning of the notorious section. The signpost said 5-6 hours, and it was 11:00. The rain had stopped. I was ready, bring it on. My friend Judy reminded me I’d biked ‘The Edge’ trail in Cragieburn which also as the name suggests cuts across a steep slope, so surely I could do this!

To my relief it seemed to pass through mostly fields of sheep, and wasn’t so bad to begin with. Things escalated quickly though as one foot got sucked into mid-calf deep mud. Still, at least my shoe was still attached!

Primarily running along the river bank, the path certainly was very narrow in places. It undulated a lot, and newer parts replaced washed out bits. Mostly, it was clear it was maintained to some degree though so I felt pretty lucky. Gravel had been put down, gorse sprayed, blackberries cut. There were enough orange triangles that I didn’t get lost like so many others seem to. It was really slow going though. I tried not to zoom the map out and see how much further I still had to go!

It wasn’t until a few hours in that I took a couple of tumbles. In places the grass made it look like there was solid ground underneath when there wasn’t. I was unharmed and didn’t fall into the river though!

Towards the end is the bit from the photo I’d seen, where the track climbs steeply up an impressive slope and then requires you to sidle across it.

I didn’t think it was so bad climbing although had to admit standing side on it is a very impressive slope.

Surely I must be nearly finished? No, the track returned down to the river and now farm paddocks mostly with sheep but some more worrying cow poo. Finally, without encountering cattle, I got to this sign though

After a brief gorse alleyway, I sheltered under some pines from a passing shower then continued onto an easy farm track. Yay! I’m almost there and I’ve made pretty good time. But, I had a nagging feeling that it would be just my luck to have cattle between me and the 1.5 km to the end. Sure enough…

They were the rush up to the fence excitedly and huge variety, so off I went on a long fence hopping detour up and down a few hills. I know it’s not great to climb over fences, but I think it’s better than becoming unable to move forward or back in a crowd of cattle. After walking an extra kilometre, eventually there was the little campsite.

I got in just before 5pm, so it had been another quite long day. The three sided tin shelter was big enough to camp in on the dirt floor, the water was running, there was a picnic table, sink etc. Someone had even made a fire nearby, and there was kindling and firewood stacked in the shelter…maybe I could light a fire? Or not… after five woeful attempts! Eventually I used the leftover birthday candles and got it going.

At the time I loved watching the fire and being a little warmer. I didn’t love the next three weeks of my clothes all smelling like campfire. Still it was satisfying to get through today’s trail though. Reading the visitor’s book in the shelter showed a lot of people got lost and fell over. Someone this season had even slipped, fallen, and landed in the river on their back on top of their pack!

Tomorrow I have to walk about 37 km to Pureora to start the Timber Trail on time. I hope I can make it, there’s quite a lot of uphill and it will be the biggest day yet. I tried to book a cabin there in this morning’s reception but it’s a bit of a random set up and I’m not sure if it’ll come through. Fingers crossed..