• Te Araroa Day 49
• Mangaokewa North Camp to Pureora – 37.7 km in 8 hours 45 minutes

My alarm went off at 6:00. I’d actually had a good sleep in the tent for a change, and I snoozed a bit. I knew I had to get going early but 7:30 came and went along with a rain shower that I was pleased to miss. My walking clothes were damp, and smelled like camp fire. I put on the full rain kit and left at 7:52…

Hopefully I can do this… I tried not to set off at a fast pace knowing it would be a very long day if something got sore or niggly. The gravel roads were lovely and quiet. Not deserted to the point where I could listen to music though, I realised as a huge truck came out of nowhere! The cool morning temperature was just right though. Water wasn’t plentiful today along the route.

I was pleased to keep up a pace of just over 5km/hour, and took a short break every hour. It was one of those days where the seat is super handy – turning almost anything into a comfy place to sit.

There weren’t many houses for the first two hours, but then there were signs of life and a farm or two. A dog sat out front one of houses next to the road. I tip toed past nervously but it didn’t move. After a few hours the road passed through a farming area that seemed to be run by local Māori. Quite a few friendly farm workers zipped past on farm vehicles. I wondered what happens when a logging truck comes along the road, as about five had. On the farm land there was a sign for ‘Finishing School’. I wondered if this meant fattening up animals, was something to do with vegetables (as it was in fields of kale or something) or helping young people into work? I can’t seem to find anything about it on Google now. Does anyone know?

Eating was no trouble today – I was really working up an appetite and getting through my snacks and lunch. A farm worker stopped to check if I wanted a ride to the junction. It was a bit tempting, but I was tracking ok for time and nothing hurt too much so I politely declined.

After lunch the clouds started to look a bit ominous. Then there were thunder rumbles in the distance. I put on my jacket in the hopes of warding it off. At the point where I’d finally made it to State Highway 39, it set in though. Back on went the rain pants, and the high vis vest which I was really grateful for in the gloom. It got heavier, but I was relieved there wasn’t a lot of traffic, and there were actually traffic signs warning of walkers. The first Te Araroa signage of any kind I’d seen all day!

7.8 km is quite a lot of state highway, and I tried not to look at the distance. When the rain was at its heaviest, I was really glad to find a school bus shelter to take cover in and have a good rest. I waited twenty minutes, had some food and set off again in slightly lighter rain.

Eventually I saw the signage for The Timber Trail and turned off onto a quiet road for the last few kilometres. The sun even almost came out! I finally got reception after none all day to see my cabin booking had come through. Phew, camping would have been challenging in the damp and cold. Connecting with the outside world, and multitasking on my phone helped pass the time walking the last little bit into camp.

The cabins are quite old and seemed like perhaps former DOC hut type accommodation but then there’s an oven so maybe not? There was a heater too! I cranked both up and started pulling everything out to dry. There was a hunter next door who seemed a bit random, but friendly enough. Mobile reception deteriorated which helped me unglue from my phone a bit. My legs and feet didn’t seem too bad considering the big day, but as they often do they seemed to twitch or hurt when I try to go to sleep which is really annoying.

I’m really looking forward to doing some cycling again tomorrow and the relief of following a straightforward track with none of the regular Te Araroa hazards. It will be nice to put on dry clothes and shoes in the morning too, even if they’re not clean as such.