• Shikoku 88 Day 8
• Temples 28 – 32
• 42.26km of cycling, some walking with 223m of elevation gain
• Overall progress: 403.9 km of 1200km-ish

I had decided not to start too early this morning as it had looked like yet another rainy day. Today’s route would take me across Kochi city, one of the biggest cities on Shikoku. Miraculously it wasn’t actually raining yet, and my host very kindly offered to deliver my bags to tonight’s accommodation as she was heading into the city. This morning I’d switched my phone on to find it wouldn’t pick up the SIM card in it and was half stuck on flight mode. Try as I might, I couldn’t seem to fix it any of the suggested ways so I wouldn’t be able to check much while out and about today. It had been so useful to make phone calls yesterday too. After another hearty breakfast, I rejigged the bags to make sure I had only the essentials in one pannier. My host gave me a very helpful pre-departure briefing on how to navigate Chikurunji and its one way streets and multiple approach options and I set off at 9am to nearby 28 Dainichiji 大日寺.

Without rain and cycling with a lighter load it was lovely following little roads on the walking route through rice paddies and quiet residential areas. I wasn’t sure whether to hustle or enjoy it but went with the latter, still trying to get healthy again and look after myself. I stopped in for some manju (a bun filled with red bean paste) at a shop called Henro Ishi – named after the stone signposts that mark the pilgrimage route, one of which was right outside. They were yummy and I was having a nice time seeing just how many red bean paste filled goodies I could consume on this trip.

29 Tosa Kokubunji 土佐国分寺 had beautiful grounds with tall trees lining the pathway and a peaceful atmosphere. Apparently it still looks like it did 1250 years ago, is a National Historic Site, and known as The Moss Temple of Tosa for the beautiful cedar moss garden.

It had been a lovely morning so far, but a few spits of rain got a bit heavier and I hastily put on all my rain gear. Drizzle became steady rain as I made my way through industrial parts, skirting the edge of the city to Zenrakuji 善楽寺. I parked the bike under the toilet eaves and managed to keep my stamp book dry enough while I squelched around completing my visit. There didn’t seem to be anywhere for a break nearby, so I continued on towards the city and my next stop, hoping to find somewhere for lunch. By the time you’re dripping wet it’s difficult to find anywhere you can actually enter without feeling embarrassed at getting water everywhere. In the end I saw a family restaurant chain I vaguely remembered, with a spot I could park the bike and peel off my sopping wet jacket and pants to look slightly more presentable. Coco’s was heaving on this Sunday afternoon, and a sensory onslaught of jingles, order confirmations and chatter. But it was warm, had an all you can order hot and cold drink bar option, and robots to watch delivering food. Pizza, hot chips and karaage hit the spot and there was even free WiFi.

I had now tracked down a Japanese rain radar website, but there was no respite from today’s weather on the horizon. Stopping into a mobile phone shop to borrow a SIM card tool bought no joy with my phone.

I continued on to 31 Chikurinji 竹林寺, following my host’s advice to park my bike by the school and head up the steps. The uneven, never ending, very slippery stone steps weren’t so bad on the way up but made for very treacherous travel on the way down. The school students had written cute postcards wishing pilgrims well, so I tucked my osamefuda or name slip in as a thank you as I left, wondering if it would survive the rain and wind.

Temple 32 Zenjibuji 禅師峰寺 didn’t look too far away, and although I was following the sign posts between that and the bike navigation I just couldn’t figure out the best way up. After a few circles and a short but steep climb I did make it and sorted my things out in the dry of the toilet. A cheerful attendant was a bright spot in a damp visit although I did notice the view out over the stormy ocean and could see why it is the temple where fisherman pray for safety at sea.

I was now on the home straight to tonight’s accommodation, and running late again. The bike navigation worked perfectly though, and I found the dock for the free little ferry that runs across Urado Bay. This saved me quite a few kilometres, and as well as the cheery old guys running it, there were primary school boys having a great time mimicking the scene from Titanic to entertain me.

My accommodation tonight was right opposite the next temple, and just a few kilometres away. So close that I rode past, half saw something temple out of the corner of my eye, and in two minds turned around just in case. Sure enough it was the temple and there was Kouchiya. They were very well organised – here’s a bucket to put your rain gear in, here’s newspaper to put in your shoes, here’s your washing basket etc etc. I jumped straight in the bath and then had a nice dinner, but really wasn’t feeling too good at all. I was a bit worried I was going to get a chest infection from continuing on and having to push two days in a row. Lying down after dinner helped a bit and tomorrow is another day – a much shorter day.

PS: Nic from the future (day 12) would like to reassure you that things improve, I’m still alive, and some sunny days are ahead!