• Shikoku 88 Day 1
• 33.32km with 325m of elevation gain
• Temples 1-6

I don’t know where to start today… My head has finally stopped spinning but it’s been a big day and an emotional rollercoaster of low key panic, back to thinking I can do this, to getting a little lost and along the way muddling through everything involved in visiting 6 temples!

After some blog writing first thing this morning Madoka made me a lovely breakfast of onigiri and then they all waved me off. It felt pretty special and eased my nerves a bit.

The first stop was Ryōzenji 霊山寺 and it was quite busy when I arrived with a bus in the parking lot. I headed into the shop to buy the necessary kit: a white vest or hakui, a stole or wagesa, a pilgrimage book, some incense, a lighter, and just in time I remembered the sedge hat or sugegasa. The kind staff member who was helping me had to go away somewhere to find one, but I was grateful he did – even if I’m not quite sure how or where I’m going to attach it to my bike while between temples.

Then it was time to begin. I approached the main temple gate nervously clutching my guide book open on the Proper Etiquette at a Temple page. Unable to find the big bell and wondering if there were too many pilgrims anyway I continued on, trying to find the right things in my bag, stand in the right place, and generally not make a fool of myself. Just as I left and turned to face the main gate to bow finally, a kind Japanese man from Wakayama offered to take my photo. He then whisked me around the corner to where there was an osettai stand with more lovely people who were excited to talk to me, take some photos together and kindly gave me a mandarin, some socks and a can of juice. It was a reassuring end to my first temple visit.

Temple number 2 is Gokurakuji 極楽寺 and very close. It was quieter and I felt relieved. Two Japanese pilgrims were walking down a long curved concrete path amongst tall bamboo and I suddenly realised it was the alternative way up to the main hall, avoiding a long steep set of stone stairs. Phew. I then promptly mixed up the order of which hall to pray at first. At the end of the visit I received my first nōkyō stamp as proof of my worship.

The third temple is Konsenji 金泉寺 and I finally found a bell to ring here! I think I actually got the order of everything right too but it might’ve been the only time today… The stamp office woman was kind and told me that foreign cyclists doing the pilgrimage seemed to be increasing.

I stopped at a convenience store to buy some lunch, kept going, and eventually came across a little hut for pilgrims where I ate and chatted to a Japanese man who was just heading off on foot again. It was quite close to number 4 Dainichiji 大日寺 which was a lovely temple at the end of the road nestled in the foothills. It also had a special cycle parking area! I decided to buy a 30 pack of mini candles which seemed more manageable than the large pack at the earlier shop that I couldn’t bring myself to carry. The plastic box cap for the incense sticks was becoming a measure of calmness levels and required deep breaths. I’d also only accidentally snapped a few sticks in half by the end of the day. A cat wandered through the grounds and the bell eluded me again, until I saw it as I was leaving – not the appropriate or lucky time to ring it alas.

Jizōji 地蔵寺 was the fifth stop today. There was a huge 800 year old gingko tree in the middle of the grounds. The bell was easy to spot and I was amused that my bike in the parking lot was visible in the background. Leaving, I headed off in the wrong direction but navigation with the bike computer is generally going well and it beeps immediately with “off course” alerts.

As I pulled into the final car park I laughed as I saw the Ehime Kanko bus pulling out. It seemed a fitting end to the day after starting with them and crossing paths a couple of other times. There were lovely maples at Anrakuji 安楽寺, but I was confused by the indoor layout of the main hall and couldn’t find a bell. I was a bit tired and although number 7 was very close by it seemed better to head to tonight’s accommodation.

I pulled in about 4:45 and a lovely assistant man checked me in. They even have crocs for guests to borrow! My room is a cute little tatami room and I’m getting the hang of laying out futons again. The owner kindly offered to drive me to the closest convenience store so I could pick up dinner and breakfast supplies but it was only a kilometre which surely wouldn’t be so bad on a bike without luggage. It was really nice to lie down in my room and recover a bit after dinner. Later I had another nice chat with the owner who seemed reassured by my plans to not go to the infamous number 12 tomorrow.