After going to sleep last night listening to thunder and heavy rain, I was relieved to wake up to a fine morning. I felt a bit better, sort of had my voice back, and the bathroom rubbish bin slogan which had invited me to “review your expectations for your life” didn’t feel as overwhelming as last night! It was another great spread for breakfast, but I decided I didn’t need to be a hero and try the natto.

After yesterday’s rain my bike (named Big Red by the way) was covered in grit from water flying up off the road, so I gave the chain and cassette a bit of a clean and went off to the temple opposite – number 33 Sekkeiji 雪蹊寺. It had a small fruit and vege stall all laid out but was otherwise not too exciting. The fact that it wasn’t raining was more exciting!

From here I followed the walking pilgrim route on little roads between rice paddies with beautiful early morning reflections of the blue sky and surrounding hills. It was idyllic and for a change I felt like I could cruise today with not too far to go.

At my next stop Tanemaji 種間寺 there was a cute corgi in a camping van in the car park. Some temples allow pets to come in too and I’ve seen a few different types of dogs. Perhaps not this temple though as the corgi didn’t pop up again. I did spot the Japanese grandpa who’d been at my accommodation last night though, and chatted a bit. I’d run out of candles and they didn’t sell any here, but he kindly gave me some. I’m not sure an Air NZ lolly was too exciting in return, but he seemed pleased. Then the stamp attendant gave me a cute pack of snacks as osettai. Just as I was leaving a young Taiwanese woman arrived on a rental bike, but without any luggage so perhaps doing a different style of trip. I still haven’t seen any other cyclists doing the same thing as me.

The lovely ride continued into Tosa city which had a river that reminded me of the Clutha. I popped into an electronics store to ask about phones and they were kind but confirmed it’s difficult to buy a new mobile as a tourist.

I knew there was a climb up to the 35th temple Kiyotakidera 清滝寺 and thought I’d take a taxi if I wasn’t feeling good. But although it was warm I felt like I had plenty of time, so I bought an Aquarius sports drink and found a good place to leave the bike and my luggage under some bamboo.

The walk up the road wasn’t too hard, and I enjoyed looking at the various little vege patches, small citrus orchards and watching the black butterflies that seemed to be everywhere. I’d even accidentally taken a side road up and avoided a long steep flight of stairs in the approach to the temple.

Kiyotakidera had excellent views out over Tosa city, and unusually its own fire truck? The temple name means pure waterfall and sure enough I found that too. Just as I was coming back from the stamp office I recognised my motorcycle friend Nishikawa-san from the other day. I bought a bag of konatsu citrus via the honesty box on the table and waited for him. Another Japanese walker came along and we had a nice chat. He hadn’t been able to find accommodation last night but had found a spot outdoors miraculously out of the rain. He was a cheerful and positive character, not on his first pilgrimage trip around Shikoku. I gave them each a konatsu, and Nishikawa-san disappeared to his bike and came back to shyly give me some sweets and a little bag of two bath powder sachets. It was a thoughtful gift and we exchanged Instagram accounts.

I walked back down the same road and was enjoying the nice scenery and good day when I ground to a abrupt halt jarring my knee a bit.

Just a metre in front of me a brown snake was slithering across the road, and I’d been two steps away from standing on it!! It headed away, and I don’t really know if it was one of the poisonous Mamushi because of this terribly blurry photo. A few pilgrims have told me they’re quite small though, and Google throws up a variety of colors and patterns. Googling snake photos is not something to spend too long on though! I continued very carefully and cautiously back down to my bike, grateful that I’m often looking at the ground trying to take care of my knee. 

I spotted a bakery on my way back through the city, and got a Totoro bun, sweet potato bread, red bean paste bun, and mini chocolate croissant – all for about NZ$10! I do love a Japanese bakery. The convenience store didn’t have Wi-Fi but I was beginning to feel like I could actually do without, and wondered if it was meant to be.

There are lots of koinobori (carp streamers) decorating the streets at the moment as Children’s Day on May 5th nears. These were some of the biggest I’ve seen so far.

The day got hotter but it was still reasonably pleasant and I was feeling on schedule and relaxed. I had a break at a rest hut and a kind Japanese woman got out of her car and handed me a sports drink from the vending machine, wishing me well. The gaijin couple I’d seen a couple of times already this morning came along to sit down too. They are from Brazil but live in Thailand, and are staying at the same hostel tonight.

I went through an 800m long tunnel and coasted downhill into the little port town of Usa and before I knew it I was almost at tonight’s hostel. There hadn’t been too much climbing today and nice conditions helped. I dropped off my bags before going to today’s final temple – number 36 Shoryuji 青竜寺.

It was out on the Yokonami peninsula and my route took me over a big red bridge, and along a coastal road. I saw the odd walking pilgrim, passed a few beaches, and watched the fishing boats. The temple felt almost too easy to find after the last few days, and there wasn’t even a climb up to it. Just a few stairs, but beautiful ones. There weren’t any candles on display for sale, but when I asked the kind woman said they did sell them and gave me a perfect little pack.

I stopped at Ryunohama (Dragon Beach) on the way back and chilled out for an hour. It felt like one of the first chances I’d had to stop and take a breath on this trip. After a few days I’d felt like I was getting the hang of everything, but then of course there had been a few other challenges. Today was just an all round lovely day. I could see almost all the way to Cape Misaki, and it was satisfying but a little unbelievable to think I’d cycled all that way in a few days.

The bench I’d chosen to sit on was just around the corner from where a Japanese woman seemed to be feeding local (homeless?) cats. When I sat down I thought that might last ten minutes, but she kept up a running conversation with them for an hour, and there seemed to be baskets, and food and quite the set up – like a mini beachside resort for cats. She was still going when I left.

After stopping at the conbini and post office I headed back to the hostel to check in. It was an eclectic mix of small, older house and renovated bits with mod cons like code-locking doors. Mari was a wonderful host though, and they seemed to have thought of everything pilgrims could want – like curry rice and yakisoba fried noodles free of charge if you wanted a midnight snack, as well as bananas and toast for breakfast. It reminded me of some of the trail angels on Te Araroa.

Mari was more than happy to drive us all to a local restaurant for dinner, and although the first place was closed it became a scenic tour of the town. Usa is a confusing name, often written in capitals and I had to admit I’d been confused to see what I thought was “America Resort” earlier that day! It’s a fishing port, with whale watching tours in the summer, but like many other places a declining population.

It was interesting to chat to the Brazilian couple over dinner and help them order various vegetarian items from the izakaya menu. Mari and her partner Kei picked us up and conversation turned to tomorrow’s route choice. We could either take a coastal road for 10km, or a tiny ferry that crisscrossed Uranouchi Bay for an hour. It was so small only folding bikes were allowed, and I could’ve used my bike bag but the disassembly/reassembly time didn’t seem worth it. At this point Kei amazingly offered to drive my bike the 10km, just so I could enjoy the ferry experience with the other pilgrims and save my legs a little! It was so generous and I was very grateful.

There was more good news when Madoka messaged to say her father has an old mobile phone he’s not using that she can send ahead for me to borrow. It’ll be great peace of mind, and I gratefully accepted this too.

My legs are feeling tired, and are a bit cut up from my pedals, but it’s nice to not feel like I’m teetering on the edge of a chest infection anymore. The ferry leaves at 7:10am so we’ll be up early tomorrow! Handily the dock is only a minute away on foot though.