• Shikoku 88 Day 17
• 36.19km of cycling with 331m of elevation gain
• Overall progress: 879.25 km of 1200km ish, and 51 of 88 temples

Yay! A crisp and sunny morning and a day without much wind. It was nice to chat to Julian more over another delicious breakfast. His knees still seemed a bit sore, whereas I was now at the stage I felt comfortable enough to give away some of my Voltaren. I swapped a sheet for two of the huge citrus fruit he was carrying. He politely asked our host if it was ok to leave about 8:15am, and I laughed when I heard her tell him to get a move on and that everyone else left at 6am for the walk into Matsuyama city. She was chuckling as she said it, but there were 6 temples to visit today, which would take at least two hours alone. I was sad to say goodbye, and thanked her for being such a generous host. Over breakfast she’d told us how many guest houses had just never restarted again after Covid, as the hosts approached their eighties and it was easier to give it up. I learned she was 77 years old and unsure how long she’d keep it up, so I felt very grateful I’d been able to stay with her. I promised to message her when I finished, and send a photo.

After a FamiMa pit stop for today’s supplies, I was really happy to find Shinobu and Ashita-san one last time. They thought it was hilarious because I popped up just as they’d been discussing how old I might be. After clarifying my age, and thanking them for the interesting conversations we’d had, we wished each other well and shook hands.

The scenery on the way out of Kumakogen was stunning in the morning light. I watched a motorcyclist park his bike up with a view of the mountains behind and start his own photoshoot. I laughed, thinking I’d probably have done the same if I’d been on that side of the road.

The final climb was reasonably mellow, and all the traffic was on the expressway. It was just me and the middle-aged boy racers in their funny low to the ground sports cars having a hoon on a public holiday. After a brief tunnel near the top of Misaka Pass (720m) it was time for the long downhill into Matsuyama city. I caught the odd view but always seemed to fly past the spot and realise too late it would’ve been the best place for a photo. Wrapped up warm, I was having a great time until at some point there must have been an exit from the expressway and suddenly there were so many cars. The road wasn’t so wide anymore and featured one of my least favourite parts of riding in Japan — a dreaded ditch! Unlike the gutters or roadside verges I knew, there was nothing gradual about these things.

This photo is from a suburban one, but these traps for unwary cyclists can be anywhere – rural roads, city roads, national highways… I remember tiredly wobbling up a hill in the countryside near Tokushima on my second day thinking “don’t topple into the ditch and end the tour here”. Thankfully today was another day I successfully didn’t fall in, and after some death-gripping sections I made it to the intersection where a tiny, bumpy road turned off to go almost directly downhill to today’s first temple. I’d found this path last night when checking the guidebook, and was glad to be able to cut 5km off my route.

Just as I was parking outside Temple 46 Jōruriji 浄瑠璃寺, Nishida-san was coming out. I recognised a fellow fan of navy blue and asked if I could take a photo of him.

It was also here where I saw the best dressed pet pilgrim! The 1000 year old Chinese Juniper tree was impressive, and although it was a little early for the peony gardens and lily pond they must be beautiful in flower.

My next stop Yasakaji 八坂寺 was just a kilometre further on, and at this rate I felt like I’d have plenty of time in Matsuyama city this afternoon to sightsee. The gate I came through had colourful and intricate paintings on the ceiling. After completing my rituals I walked through the underground heaven-and-hell tunnels, not entirely sure what I was doing but luckily I don’t seem to have ended up in hell. In the carpark I found the custom Ehime prefecture roadside construction markers I’d missed getting a photo of a few days ago  – no orange road cones here!

Temple 48 Sairinji 西林寺 is famous for being the place where Kobo Daishi ended a severe drought by finding water, and it continues to flow today. Apparently it was selected as one of the top ‘100 famous waters’ in Japan in 1985 – Japan does love a ranking list. A stream runs in front of the temple, and the entrance is across a small concrete bridge. I waited in the stamp office for a bit before an old woman hurried back, apologising that she’d been out feeding the carp. We had a lovely chat and then I went to see the giant carp, while dithering about whether to buy a traffic safety omamori good luck charm. I didn’t… hopefully I won’t get hit by a car tomorrow!

At the 49th temple Jōdoji 浄土寺 I met a Canadian man who was walking with his Japanese friend he’d met on the trail the previous year. He was very interested in cycling it in the future, and had quite a lot of questions for me when we met again at the next stop.

Just 1.6km further on was temple 50 Hantaji 繁多寺. It immediately reminded me of Dad (retired engineer), with some kind of hydroelectricity scheme sign complete with the cute Tokushima mascot characters nearby, and a reservoir and pump station beside the temple. My guidebook said the bell was made in 1696!? I rang it very gently.

The last temple of the day Ishiteji 石手寺 was located in a huge complex, and in hindsight I should’ve left myself more time to explore. Unfortunately temple fatigue had set in for the day though, I really needed to pee, and was a bit frustrated with how time had somehow slipped away on me again. But I did manage to find the mochi that are famous here (and yummy), as well as a toilet.

I checked in and had a very quick pit stop before heading back out on foot to the base of the cable car and chairlift up to Matsuyama Castle. There was only enough time for a one way ticket to the top, but I figured it would still save me some time. Arriving at the top, there were tourists everywhere and a long queue for the return trip back down.

The 360-degree view of the city was pretty amazing, and even though it was too late for going inside the castle I enjoyed looking around the outside.

I had no idea which path downhill was going to be easiest, or lead me back towards the base shopping area but a stab in the dark worked out. Vague ideas of finding the famed ‘mandarin juice tap’ required braving the souvenir shops which were full of people. Alas the tap was out of service, perhaps drained dry on the final day of the Golden Week holidays?? I made do with some magnets and stickers before searching for dinner. All the restaurants here seemed to be only serving tai meshi – a local speciality which seemed to be sea bream on rice. It wasn’t really grabbing me and the combination of queues out the door with high tourist prices put me off.

I decided to go back to the hotel, get my bike, and ride the short distance to the famous Dogo Onsen area. I thought if I aimed for one of the less popular onsen, perhaps it wouldn’t be too busy.

Turns out I had no idea how popular this area was, and there were so many people queuing for anything and everything. I braved the jam-packed and mildly overwhelming shopping street, bought some freshly made sembei rice crackers to stave off my hunger, emerged back into fresh air able to laugh at the sheer number of people waiting outside the most famous onsen, before hurrying back to my bike.

I had a vague memory of a chain soba restaurant I’d passed on the way, and thankfully a seat had opened up by the time I got back. It was cosy but very reasonably priced, and the crisp tempura was delicious.

I had a peaceful and pleasant bath back at my hotel after putting some washing on. My whirlwind tour of some of Matsuyama’s top sightseeing spots had felt a bit crazy. I’d been dashing about a bit like the stereotypical Japanese tourist! Although I’d hoped to have more time after my cycling guidebook indicated that it was a short day, I still just didn’t seem to be able to hurry around temples. I couldn’t have cut off the Canadian guy who was so eager to chat. Although I kind of wanted to see the famous places, I had a growing feeling that perhaps I didn’t enjoy that kind of sightseeing as much anymore. Cycling through little back streets, greeting people I passed, gazing at the countryside and imagining what it was like to live here and there, chatting to friendly staff or travellers…. these were the bits I enjoyed the most.